There are two types of solid deposit and one type of liquid residue that cleaning can help remove. Let's clarify these and what we know about each - and what we can do about them.

First is liquid residue.

By this I mean the excess juice that gets to parts of the atomiser case where it is not used up. This is what draining each night is for. When people use compressed air or boiling then report improvement, this is what they have done - removed the excess juice fluid. Simple draining (place upside down on paper towel, perhaps overnight) is sufficient for this, whereas compressed air and boiling have inherent dangers.

Second is simple dry residue.

This forms when excess juice dries inside the atomiser. When it dries within the metal mesh wicking, it restricts both juice flow and air flow (when blocks the tiny air inlet hole in the metal mesh). Some would be removed by a soak or rinse in warm water. Or steam; but steam, like compressed air, risks mechanical damage to the coil and fine connecting wires. Baths that might help remove more dry residue incude detergent and alcohol but the best is probably a weak acid such as citric acid/lemon juice, vinegar and cola. Alcohol can be used (a non-toxic one, such as ethanol; for example, Vodka or EverClear) though it might soften the paint on a few models of e-cig. Gently heated is better but boiling is risky (risks include overheating by contact with bottom of pan, bumping around and mechanical damage from bubbles).

Third is the hardened deposit on the heater coil itself.

This is extremely difficult to remove when allowed to build up over weeks (preventative cleaning, of say once or twice per weak with a weak acid might help prevent this build up). It is formed of the dry deposit that originates from the juice (all those substances dissolved in the juice that will not evaporate when heated and are left behind, like limescale in a kettle). Although originally composed of dry residue from the juice, on the coil but mot the metal wick, the deposits are very likely chemically and structurally altered by repeated heating to become over time resistant to removal. This deposit is often the life-limiting factor for atomizers. Two choices here: 1) just accept that atomizers need replacing periodically and keep a supply of backups 2) performing a regular 'dry burn'.

The 'Dry Burn' Technique

The dry burn should be performed frequently, from new; any less and when it is done the deposit might already have become too thick, heat insulating the coil and restricting expansion, possibly leading to wire melt or snap (failure).

So as a cleaning method it is best only used with a new atty, daily; for about 5-10 seconds, using battery power and not a passthrough. There are lots of variables; and there is a chance that this method might kill off an atty early, especially one that has been used for some time already.

Apply power to the atomiser till it is dry and begins to glow; hold this for 5-10 seconds and perhaps repeat. Obviously this is easier carried out with a manual atomiser.

Automatic e-cigs have a built in 'cleaning cycle' which aims to do a dry burn. But there are several problems with that: first, it is far too infrequent; second, it runs too long (about 30 seconds); and third, one doesn't know when it is going to activate. If you notice that your e-cig suddenly stays on for more than a few seconds without puffing, it is best to quickly unscrew the atomiser from the battery for a moment to halt it.

Here are two close up pictures of a 901 atomiser coil being cleaned by dry burn - in this case out of the atomiser casing so that it is clearly visible:

 

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